ATTITUDE/ CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR OF GEN Z TOWARDS ANIMAL WELFARE & PREVALENCE OF CRUELTY FREE COSMETICS IN THE UK 

MARK7013: Understanding Consumer Behaviour

ATTITUDE/ CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR OF GEN Z TOWARDS ANIMAL WELFARE & PREVALENCE OF CRUELTY FREE COSMETICS IN THE UK 
Executive summary
The cosmetic industry in the UK is changing rapidly and with the rising preference for cruelty-free products among the Gen Z, the industry is experiencing a rapid transition. The study has explored the unethical business practices of the industry regarding animal testing and the way it has taken advantage of loopholes in animal testing ban legislation in the UK. Further, cosmetic manufacturers need to stop animal testing to avoid activist actions. Peta and other activist bodies are concerned about unethical activities, especially animal killing, and if the industry continues to be part of animal testing, it may face serious activist actions and legal charges. However, due to rising preferences for cruelty-free cosmetics, organisations are aligning their business activities with cruelty-free product development. The application of trait, consumer personality and other theories has helped to understand the attitude and behaviour of Gen Z towards animal welfare and the prevalence of cruelty-free cosmetics in the UK. The cosmetics industry in the UK needs to become more consumer-centric, and in this regard, they can eliminate animal testing and embrace organic and cruelty-free items. Several new organisations have entered the market to serve the interests of the mentioned consumer base, while existing ones are changing their practices. The industry can integrate modern technologies to innovate and expand its cruelty-free product line up and uphold business sustainability. 
 
Table of Contents
1. Introduction 4
2. UK’s cosmetic industry regarding animal cruelty 4
3. Consumer behaviour towards animal cruelty-free cosmetics 6
4. Consumer Behaviour Theory 7
5. Personal values theory 9
6. Hoftede’s cultural value theory 12
7. Trait theory 14
8. Future of the Cosmetics Industry in the UK 15
9. Recommendations 17
10. Conclusion 17
11. Reference list 18
Appendix List 22

 
1. Introduction
Testing of cosmetics on animals is a common practice in the cosmetic industry, and the UK is no different. Testing of cosmetics is responsible for the death of more than 500,000 animals each year (Sentientmedia, 2023). Rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, rats and mice are used as test animals by the industry, and different cosmetic chemicals are applied to the fur and skins of these animals to check their safety and applicability on human skin. Such tests cause immense pain and mental torment among these animals. Gen Z in the UK is heavily cautious about such testing, and they have expressed a positive attitude towards animal welfare and cruelty-free cosmetics. In a survey, beauty consumers stated that they found “vegan” labelling more appealing on their cosmetic products, and approximately 39.5% stated that “cruelty-free” labelled products are preferable to them (Dominique, 2023). In this study, the behaviour of the Gen Z of the UK will be analysed and the way they perceive animal cruelty-free cosmetic products.
2. UK’s cosmetic industry regarding animal cruelty
The cosmetic industry in the UK has seen a boom in 2017 following the sector’s market value reaching a staggering £9.8 billion (Statista, 2022). The cosmetic industry in the UK plays a pivotal role in shaping the economic conditions of the country. Despite the challenges posed by Brexit and COVID-19, skincare and fragrances flourished to become the most significant products of the industry, and various new trends have emerged in the industry regarding these products. The market value of skincare products in the UK reached £2.2 billion in 2021, and the market value of fragrances reached £1.7 billion. However, the growth of the cosmetic industry was affected by the changes in consumer behaviour, especially among Gen Z. One of the most significant trends is the growing demand for cruelty-free and organic or natural cosmetic products.

Figure 1: Market value of skincare cosmetics in the UK
(Source: Statista.com, 2023)
The sales values of “certified organic health and beauty products” in the UK reached a massive £138 million (Statista, 2023). The Gen Z of the UK are the generous spenders of cosmetic and perusal care products, and they contributed to personal care spending of £28 billion. The impact of changing consumer behaviour is massive on conventional or traditional cosmetic brands; numerous brands, such as Boots No.7 and Rimmel, are taking a significant share of the cosmetic market.

Figure 2: Revenue of natural or organic cosmetics in the UK
(Source: Statista.com, 2023)  
Traditional organisations need to change their business procedure and must abide by the animal welfare rules of the country to serve the demands of the consumers.
3. Consumer behaviour towards animal cruelty-free cosmetics
Animal cruelty is gaining significance in the beauty product industry of the UK as the government as well as consumers, are more inclined towards animal welfare (Faria-Silva et al. 2020). The regulatory landscape in the UK is changing rapidly after the pandemic period, and so is the consumer preferences. The Gen Z of the UK are more aware, and they are concerned about animal welfare. In the “cosmetic regulations” in the UK, manufacturers are required to illustrate and prove that their cosmetics are safe for consumers without testing them on animals. As per Knight et al. (2021), “animal testing for consumer safety of cosmetics and their ingredients was banned in the UK in 1998”. This ban ensures animal well-being; however, the companies have found loopholes in the systems, which has led to compromised animal well-being. Each year more than 3 million animals undergo cosmetic testing despite the ban on animal testing for cosmetic manufacturing, and every 8 seconds, one animal dies (Animalaid, 2022). This takes a major toll on the validity of the legislation placed by the government and the effectiveness of the ban on animal testing. However, in a recent report, it surfaced that the UK government might allow animal testing for the first time since 1998 (Theguardian, 2021). The “Cruelty Free International” (CFI) has shown its grave concerns regarding the statement of the UK government and stated that the cosmetic industry is heavily involved in animal; cruelty after the healthcare industry. The UK government stated that “it was aligning itself with a decision made last year by the appeals board of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)” (Theguardian, 2021). Animal cruelty campaigns warned that accepting ECHA’s ruling can lead to wider use of animal testing in the cosmetic industry. In a statement, the UK government has accepted that it has secretly abandoned the animal testing ban in 2019 (Crueltyfreeinternational, 2023).      
The scenario has taken a dramatic turn as Gen Z of the UK is more inclined towards animal well-being and prefers their cosmetic brands to adhere to the rules and regulations regarding animal safety. Such behaviour of the consumers has forced the industry to change its strategies and be transparent and committed to animal well-being to enhance consumer satisfaction. Further, consumers prefer organic or green cosmetics due to their higher safety standards, and these cosmetics don’t torture animals for testing (Ojs, 2023). Gen Z is cautious about their health and safety and is aware of the potential harms of artificial ingredients in beauty products (Statista, 2022). Such changes in the behaviour of consumers have led to a shift in the business environment, and cosmetics brands need to become more consumer-centric to ensure better business outcomes.

Figure 3: Global organic cosmetic market growth
(Source: Statista.com, 2023)
As the demand for organic and cruelty-free cosmetics among the vastest consumer segment of the industry is rising rapidly, which is Gen Z, cosmetic manufacturers may abolish the use of animals for testing. The RSPCA has a long campaign against animal testing in the cosmetic industry of the UK (Rspca, 2021). Despite several instructions from the government, and activist actions, the industry continued its unethical practices, and finally, with the rising demand for cruelty-free cosmetics by the consumers, the industry may abolish these practices. 
4. Consumer Behaviour Theory
The Consumer Behaviour Theory (CBT), sheds light on the way an individual decides to spend their money, which is driven by their preferences and budget constraints (Tanrikulu, 2021). The changes in behaviours of Gen Z in the UK regarding cosmetic product preferences are driven by their awareness, care for the animals and health outcomes. Allergies, irritation and skin infections are the most common health issues caused by artificial ingredients in cosmetics (Bilal et al. 2020). Many cosmetic ingredients lead to burns and acute skin infections. Gen Z is gaining more awareness about the side effects of artificial materials and chemicals used in cosmetic products. This generation is well connected with digital platforms such as social media, where they may have accessed information and instances where individuals have faced skin issues or health outcomes after using chemical-added cosmetics (Mason et al. 2021). This might have led to changes in their perceptions towards conventional cosmetic items. With increasing health concerns among Gen Z in the UK, the demand for organic cosmetics is increasing rapidly.

Figure 4: Consumer behaviour theory
(Source: Tanrikulu, 2021)
Further, different activist actions from Peta, VoiceforVoicless, Jot Form and others may have gained the attention of these consumers on the unethical practices of their favourite cosmetic brands and the way they torture animals to produce cosmetics (Wang et al. 2020). This event might have a significant impact on the awareness level of the mentioned consumer segment. With increasing awareness regarding animal cruelty, they are more inclined towards cruelty-free cosmetics. Consumer behaviour has changed rapidly after COVID-19, and the pandemic has shown how unethical practices of human civilisation can lead to catastrophes and hinder the lives of thousands (Sharma and Mehta, 2020). In addition, human civilisation has witnessed the way human activities are affecting the lives of other living beings on the planet. This might have a far-reaching impact on the behaviour of Gen Z regarding cosmetic product preferences, and these incidents as a combined force may have led to the demand for animal cruelty-free cosmetics.       
5. Personal values theory
The personal value theory was developed by Schwartz, and the theory describes the basic values of an individual and the impact of these values on their decision-making process (Ahmad et al. 2020).
1. Power The values of an individual can be segregated into four different facets, and these are self-experience and enhancement, conservation and ambition to change (Witte et al. 2020). The motivational goal of power is the attainment of social status.
2. Achievement The changes in the behaviour of Gen Z towards cosmetic products can be described with the help of these four core principles of this theory. The realm of self-transcendence and self-enhancement sheds light on the behaviour of an individual toward the efforts to ensure self-enhancement.
3. Hedonism An individual uses cosmetic products to look elegant, which aligns with the principles of self-enhancement. It is possible that Gen Z is more concerned about their health outcomes, and they are aware of the side effects of chemical-added cosmetic products; in order to ensure long-term elegance and beauty, they prefer organic cosmetics.
4. Stimulation The demand for cruelty-free cosmetics may be driven by the ambition for change. The world is forwarding to ensure maximum value for all lives (Attenborough, 2020).
5. Self-direction The motivational goal of self-direction is independent though. These values might be driven by the ambition to change among Gen Z, and their preferences for sustainable, chemical and cruelty-free cosmetics for better health outcomes.
6. Universalism Activities across the UK and the world might have fostered a sense of conservation, and Gen Z might have felt that it is not ethical to kill innocent animals to ensure cosmetics are safe for human usage.
7. Benevolence As studied by Esper et al. (2020), the business environment is shifting rapidly, and due to the massive changes in consumer behaviours, organisations are adopting or becoming more consumer-centric.
8. Tradition Major traditional cosmetic manufacturers in the UK might shift to organic or cruelty-free cosmetic manufacturing to attract all the consumer segments in the UK and increase business revenue.
9. Conformity The conformity in the behaviour of Gen Z is the result of care for others (animals) and due to their emphasis on animal well-being, they prefer cruelty-free cosmetics.
10. Security Cruelty-free products are free of chemicals and artificial ingredients, which makes them safer for all types of skin. This provides better security to all users.
Table 1: Schwartz’s Theory
(Source: Self-created)


Figure 5: Personal values towards cruelty-free cosmetics
(Source: Self-created)
“The British Beauty Council” seeks to create a positive change within the cosmetic or beauty industry, and the non-profit organisation stated that they are “working with various policymakers and stakeholders to investigate the challenges facing the UK Government’s approach to cosmetics testing following the recent news” (Atmos, 2023). Further, the organisation added that “we continue to work towards completely eliminating animal testing from UK beauty as something that is of the utmost importance to both consumers and industry” (Atmos, 2023).
 
Figure 6: Ranking of ethical cosmetic brands in the UK
(Source: statista.com, 2023)    
6. Hofstede’s cultural value theory
The “Hofstede’s Cultural Value Theory” is the framework for understanding cross-cultural psychology and it was developed by Geert Hofstede (Lazim et al. 2020). As per the principles of the theory, it is possible that the cultural shift in London has driven the attitude of Gen Z towards cruelty-free cosmetics. The behaviour of an individual is often affected by the values and beliefs of society. The societal culture of the UK has emphasised animal rights as long back as the 1990s and it has nurtured a sense of animal rights among Gen Z. This has led to rising care for animals and these consumers prefer cruelty-free cosmetics. However, these cosmetic products will be costlier compared to traditional cosmetic products, and this is going to hurt the pocket of the consumers as well as the profit margin of organisations as they need to bear extra costs in R&D to develop alternatives to animal testing. This is the major disadvantage of the decision of Gen Z towards more inclined preferences for cruelty-free cosmetics. On the other hand, the advantages of the decision include a cruelty-free world and the same value for the lives of the animals as of humans. It can help the users contribute towards ethical business and ensure a sustainable future. The demand and preferences for cruelty-free products are increasing rapidly, and as per a survey by Google Analytics, Gen Z of Aberdeen is more interested in cruelty-free makeup brushes (Vegconomist, 2022). Different areas of the UK searched for different cruelty-free and vegan cosmetic products. [Refer to Appendix 1] 

Figure 7: Heat map of searched terms
(Source: Vegconomist, 2022)   
The consumers of the UK, not only Gen Z, are more focused on cruelty-free cosmetics, but 65% of consumers want to phase out animal testing permanently in the UK (Crueltyfreeinternational, 2023).

Figure 8: The willingness of Gen Z in the UK to purchase non-cruelty-free cosmetic
(Source:Statista.com, 2023)
The above image illustrates that 50% of consumers from the Gen Z segment are not likely to buy a non-cruelty-free cosmetic product, whereas, 38% stated that they might not purchase and only 12% stated that non-cruelty-free certification is of no value to them. This states that Gen Z is strongly focused on cruelty-free cosmetics. Aligning with the principles of the consumer behaviour theory, it can be stated that such behaviour is driven by ethical values, social media influence, social trends, information accessibility and availability of alternatives (Kabene and Baadel, 2019).       
7. Trait theory
The trait theory or personality theory suggests that every individual has basic or certain traits or personalities (Jayawickreme et al. 2019). According to the principles of the theory, the ethical behaviour or personality of an individual can be aligned with their focus on cruelty-free cosmetic products. The increasing use of social media and emerging trends on social platforms regarding animal safety have led to changes in the behaviour of Gen Z. They have understood the horrific context of animal torture just to produce a fragrance of nail polish or other cosmetics. Increasing activist actions towards such unethical practices and exploited behaviour of the industry has increased awareness, and it has driven the rising demand for cruelty-free cosmetics.
Further, Gen Z is conscious of environmental sustainability and how important it is to prevent animal cruelty (Magano et al. 2022). Such personalities align with the demand for sustainable and ethical business practices, and the individuals might have demanded ethical business conduction by eliminating animal testing.

Figure 9: Five big personality traits
(Source: Medium, 2022)  
8. Future of the Cosmetics Industry in the UK
The cosmetic industry in the UK is heavily dynamic, and it has witnessed never-ending trends in the industry. One of the major trends in the industry that gained significance as early as 2010 and continued to evolve more strongly rather than fading away is the increasing focus on consumers on cruelty-free and organic cosmetic products (Grappe et al. 2021). Several organisations have embraced the transition to cruelty-free manufacturing, while some have remained with traditional practices. New brands enter the market with organic and cruelty-free products to take advantage of Gen Z’s rising preferences for such products. However, the term “cruelty free” is a complex web, and it is possible that a product is not tested on an animal, but some of its ingredients are tested (Atmos, 2023).

Figure 10: Most valued beauty brand responsibility
(Source: Statista.com, 2023) 
The future of the cosmetic industry and its top players is dependent on their commitment and transparency towards cruelty-free cosmetic development. As the consumers of the UK, including Gen Z, prefer organic or cruelty-free products, organisations need to align business practices with the needs and interests of the consumers to earn higher revenues. Further, eliminating animal cruelty can help these organisations to uphold their sustainable and ethical business practices (Alaouir et al. 2019). In this regard, the industry must work hand-in-hand to develop alternatives to animal testing to identify the safety of products and keep the costs of cruelty-free products under control. Further, cruelty-free product development can help organisations to improve brand reputation, reduce deforestation, decrease emissions and reduce waste, which is necessary to improve sustainability, reduce recycling costs and avoid the chances of legal issues due to poor CSR and sustainability. The UK is inching towards a net zero carbon economy, and cosmetic manufacturers, by changing their unethical business practices, can help the UK government stand on its aims and objectives (Bonsu, 2020).    
9. Recommendations
It is recommended that the cosmetic industry in the UK emphasise ethical practices and abandon animal testing to serve the diverse needs of consumers and improve the sustainability and ethicality of business (Rawof, 2021). The presence of a ban on animal testing must not play a role, the companies need to be committed to improving sustainability by completely abolishing animal testing, and they can increase investment in modern technologies and innovation for seamless and more improved cruelty-free product development. The industry needs to innovate and expand the cruelty-free product line-up. 
10. Conclusion
It can be concluded that testing cosmetic items and their ingredients on animals is an unethical practice, and it needs to be abandoned not only in the UK but across the world. The ban of the UK government on animal testing has played its part but not the way it was meant to be; it has given organisations the opportunity to utilise the loopholes. However, the perception and behaviour of Gen Z in the UK are changing rapidly, and in 2010 a trend in the beauty and cosmetics industry emerged regarding the demand for organic and cruelty-free cosmetics. The trend continued to grow, and the majority of UK cosmetic consumers prefer cruelty-free cosmetics. Analysis of the sentiments and behaviour of Gen Z regarding cruelty-free cosmetics with the help of different theories has helped to understand the drivers and motivators of such changes in behaviour. Cosmetic brands in the UK, to sustain the rising demand for such products, need to focus on technological integration and ethical product manufacturing practices. 
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Appendix List
Appendix 1: Key findings by area
● Greater Manchester and West Yorkshire mostly search for vegan makeup (UK)
● Kent and Greater London mostly search for both vegan makeup (UK) and cruelty-free makeup (UK)
● Buckinghamshire, Devon and Cheshire look most often for cruelty-free makeup brands (UK)
● Essex searches mostly for cruelty-free makeup (UK) and cruelty-free makeup brands (UK)
● Suffolk has eyes on cruelty-free cosmetics whereas Hampshire prefers to search for vegan cosmetics
● West Midlands and Lancashire search most often for vegan makeup brands (UK)
● West Sussex searches for vegan and cruelty-free makeup brushes while Warwickshire prefers to search for vegan makeup brushes and Bristol for cruelty-free makeup brushes
● East Sussex mostly searches for cruelty-free beauty whereas Surrey prefers to search for vegan beauty
● Lastly, Essex mostly looks for cruelty-free makeup (UK) and cruelty-free makeup brands (UK)
(Source: https://vegconomist.com/fashion-design-and-beauty/google-analytics-data-reveals-uk-trends-in-vegan-and-cruelty-free-beauty)